I elected 'Gucci' as my first choice, from a list of 9 labels, to work collaboratively towards elevating in new and considered direction. This was because I feel that many of the qualities 'Gucci' is synonymous with are being lost under the current, albeit innovative and exceptional, creative direction of Alessandro Michele. I knew I wanted to inject my own aesthetic into the brand whilst maintaining a sound and considerate understanding of Gucci past and present.
I threw myself right into the deep end and wanted a concept to develop on within the first hour of working. I was conscious to ensure group collaboration and to encourage a sharing of ideas. We all agreed that Gucci has always been a 'sexy 'luxury' brand and that a reintroduction of an aesthetic closer to that of Tom Ford's late 90's/ early 00's work, would benefit the brand. Very little passion and inspiration was voiced from my group peers, so I carefully assumed the role of leader within the group and pitched the following concept.
I wanted to create an eclectic 'Gucci' whose references are rich but whose silhouettes are more classic and 'feminine' in the more traditional sense of the word. 'Sex' was to be the primary driver for design whilst the 1970's 'good taste meets bad taste' look that dominates current collections should be carried through in some respects.
I looked to 1970's porn sets, where 'ugly' upholstery, seedy leather sofas and polyester curtains work within my current mood for the project. One image of a male porn-star in 'bad' denim trousers with a button- fastening all the way from the hem to the hip was particularly inspiring and became my first solid reference material.
I knew the print and textile designers in my team were working towards a floral print but was conscious of quite how much their initial work was grounded in a style very much the same as current Gucci. I felt the work would not move the brand forward and simply replicate what is already happening. I therefore encouraged my peers to look at Dutch and Flemish still life painting, namely that of Vermeer and Huysum, which I felt mirrored some of the upholstery I was looking at, yet would add a mature-feeling, luxury undertone to the more 'fun' and bad-taste references I was working on. I was extremely happy with all their work thenceforth thats maturity and elegance would ground my designs in a commercial and saleable realm.
I sketched with my peers' prints in mind and found a 00's silhouette was coming through naturally. I chose then to research further into the era. An haute-glam meets hip-hop character arose in my imagination- I felt the flesh-bearing, sex appeal of silhouettes inspired by this character would produce a well-needed break from the sexless, shapeless and casual garments that have been popular on the runway in recent seasons.
I could not avoid the over-branding of Gucci that happened in this era and how some of the merchandising associated with the label had become tacky or non-luxury seeming. I wanted therefore to take back ownership of the Gucci-stripe and give it a new lease of life, in very obvious way. I accented my initial collection ideas with the red and green stripe and believe it adds a fun, youthful touch, to some of the feminine looks I was working on.
For my final line up, I chose to focus on the low waisted hip-hop trouser of the 00's, the 70's pornstar trouser from my intial research as well as the Huysum/ Vermeer paintings which were informing the prints for the collection too.
I threw myself right into the deep end and wanted a concept to develop on within the first hour of working. I was conscious to ensure group collaboration and to encourage a sharing of ideas. We all agreed that Gucci has always been a 'sexy 'luxury' brand and that a reintroduction of an aesthetic closer to that of Tom Ford's late 90's/ early 00's work, would benefit the brand. Very little passion and inspiration was voiced from my group peers, so I carefully assumed the role of leader within the group and pitched the following concept.
I wanted to create an eclectic 'Gucci' whose references are rich but whose silhouettes are more classic and 'feminine' in the more traditional sense of the word. 'Sex' was to be the primary driver for design whilst the 1970's 'good taste meets bad taste' look that dominates current collections should be carried through in some respects.
I looked to 1970's porn sets, where 'ugly' upholstery, seedy leather sofas and polyester curtains work within my current mood for the project. One image of a male porn-star in 'bad' denim trousers with a button- fastening all the way from the hem to the hip was particularly inspiring and became my first solid reference material.
I knew the print and textile designers in my team were working towards a floral print but was conscious of quite how much their initial work was grounded in a style very much the same as current Gucci. I felt the work would not move the brand forward and simply replicate what is already happening. I therefore encouraged my peers to look at Dutch and Flemish still life painting, namely that of Vermeer and Huysum, which I felt mirrored some of the upholstery I was looking at, yet would add a mature-feeling, luxury undertone to the more 'fun' and bad-taste references I was working on. I was extremely happy with all their work thenceforth thats maturity and elegance would ground my designs in a commercial and saleable realm.
I sketched with my peers' prints in mind and found a 00's silhouette was coming through naturally. I chose then to research further into the era. An haute-glam meets hip-hop character arose in my imagination- I felt the flesh-bearing, sex appeal of silhouettes inspired by this character would produce a well-needed break from the sexless, shapeless and casual garments that have been popular on the runway in recent seasons.
I could not avoid the over-branding of Gucci that happened in this era and how some of the merchandising associated with the label had become tacky or non-luxury seeming. I wanted therefore to take back ownership of the Gucci-stripe and give it a new lease of life, in very obvious way. I accented my initial collection ideas with the red and green stripe and believe it adds a fun, youthful touch, to some of the feminine looks I was working on.
For my final line up, I chose to focus on the low waisted hip-hop trouser of the 00's, the 70's pornstar trouser from my intial research as well as the Huysum/ Vermeer paintings which were informing the prints for the collection too.
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